Routes — Day 3 — Bark Bay to Awaroa Bay (11.5km) <photos>

The scenery gets better & better.

Departing Bark Bay you will almost certainly be wading — not dangerous, but rather good fun. Aim for the big orange triangle across the flats.

If you would rather keep your dry footwear on, an all-tidal route skirts the water but takes as much as a half hour longer.

Clearing the tidal lagoon, the Track climbs a saddle and traverses some inland ridges — not difficult hiking, but the up & downs are a bit of a shock after the flat walking of past days.

One of our favourite campsites is Tonga Quarry, 3.5km from Bark Bay. Check it out. Perhaps stop for a snack & swim. If you organize your day to arrive at low tide, you can explore sea arches there at Arch Point.

Blocks of granite remain from an old quarrying operation.

Next stop is curvy Onetahuti beach, an Abel Tasman classic! We wanted to camp at Onetahuti Campsite as well. Freshwater pools are signposted near that camp site if you want a wash-up.

At the north end of the 1km beach you cross Richardson Stream — within a couple of hours of low tide for easiest fording. Hikers are sometimes delayed here.

Note: There are unusual Maori carvings in 2 caves just beyond a small stream at the northern end of Onetahuti Beach. We never found them — but you should look.

After the long beach, the Track gradually climbs to the Tonga saddle (260m). This is perhaps the toughest section on the Abel Tasman.

You have a decision to make when you reach the signposted turn-off to Awaroa Lodge & Cafe:

• turn left on the main Track to Awaroa hut, ... or
• turn right to the Lodge (beer & restaurant food)

We recommend you visit Awaroa Lodge, a wonderful bit of civilization.

If you do stop at the Lodge, you may need to backtrack to the turnoff. This was the sensible advice we got at the restaurant.

Our Lonely Planet guidebook told us there was a bridge over Venture Creek past the airstrip which would return us to the main Track. We never did find a bridge, but wading the creek (thigh deep) got us back on the main Coast Track. Enquire at the Lodge if you want to risk this shortcut.

Awaroa Hut

The hut at Awaroa is basic but comfortable. The camping area is basic, but comfortable with 18 sites. (If we could afford it we would stay at the Lodge for a night or two instead!)

Another option for fit tenters (who did not drink too much at the Lodge) would be to continue to Waiharakeke beach, about 40 minutes past Awaroa. It offers a beach paradise campground with 10 sites.

A highlight of Awaroa is exploring the tidal flats. It is especially lovely at dusk.

Next day head for Whariwharangi.