Routes — Day 4 — Awaroa to Whariwharangi (13km)

For the majority of hikers who exit at Totaranui by water taxi, this is a short day.

Instead we recommend you head to Whariwharangi Bay (which has the last hut accommodation, by the way. Surprisingly, there is no hut at Totaranui.)

Tenters have many options. But those who want to stay in huts must continue to Whariwharangi.

Departing Awaroa you must again cross the inlet close to low tide. This may determine your departure time. (Tide charts are posted in the huts. Every hiker will be making the same decision as you.)

After very heavy rain the estuary may be uncrossable.

Start at the hut and aim for large orange discs.

You will almost certainly be wading some sections.

A toilet is available on the north side of the crossing.

The Track follows Pound Creek. Eventually you are delivered to another sandy paradise.

Waiharakeke beach is one of our favourites. Definitely plan to unwind here for an hour or so. There are 10 sites for tenters 50m south of the stream. (You might not know it was there if you did not look for it.)

gorgeous Waiharakeke beach

A refreshing sidetrip is to walk up Waiharakeke stream. It is cool & shaded — especially if you feel you may be getting too much sun.

Waiharakeke stream

From Waiharakeke you cross a ridge to Goat Bay; climb again to a benched scenic lookout over Totaranui.

Civilization.

Totaranui has a small visitor centre shop selling drinks, maps, hiking brochures & provides park interpretive displays. It is a busy place with visitors arriving & departing by water taxi & bus. A public phone is available.

Totaranui camp ground is huge & busy — providing cold showers & laundry — but we prefer smaller, less crowded options.

If you do not depart the track here, check a map for the route north. You need take the road past the Education Centre. You join the Anapai Bay Track to a junction with the Headlands Track.

Take the left fork to to Anapai Bay & walk the beach.

Next stop is Mutton Cove which offers 20 camp sites for tenters.

Here you have two possible routes:

1. inland (the main track), or ...
2. via Separation Point

For the inland route, take the old farm road from the camp site over a low saddle to Whariwharangi Hut.

For those who like ocean views, we recommend the one-hour-longer route via Separation Point. Walk Mutton Beach, then look for the trail at the end of the second bay. It climbs over Separation Point, the rocky headland separating Tasman Sea from Golden Bay. Look for seals & diving gannets. Some have seen Orcas, dolphins & even penguins here.

From the Point, you rejoin the inland track at the saddle between Mutton Cove & Whariwharangi Bay.

Whariwharangi Hut (20 bunks) is the most interesting & least crowded on the Track. Lovely Whariwharangi Bay offers a camp site as well.

You will be glad you did not exit at Totaranui!

Next day head for Wainui car park.