Bus

Reliability of bus travel in the Peruvian Andes has improved greatly over the years. (Though being videotaped when boarding as a safety precaution against theft & kidnap is disconcerting.)

Most long-term travellers in Peru get around by bus. Discounts may be available if you have a student card.

Lima <> Huaraz bus

A number of companies offer service from Lima, 7-8 hours, costing US$7-14 depending on class. It could be 50% higher around major festivals.

You have a choice of day or night bus. The trip is very scenic — take a day bus at least one direction. You generally want to book & pay for your ticket at least 1 day in advance.

You go from sea level over a 4080m Conococha Pass before alighting in Huaraz at 3090m. Expect some symptoms of altitude sickness. The night bus can be cold.

Departing Huaraz is very convenient though there is no central terminal. But finding the right bus terminal in congested Lima can be a pain.

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Huaraz <> Caraz

Transport to Caraz is easy to organize.

Ask at your accommodation in Huaraz for specifics.

There are a few buses every day. But most hikers simply hop in the next available combi, a battered van running back & forth along highway 3 from Huaraz to Caraz.

The fixed price bus is safer & your gear can be locked up.

The combis are more convenient, more interesting & more dangerous! The real Peru. They are crammed with locals, produce & everything else. You must negotiate the fare.

You should pay about double the local price for yourself & your pack. (Keep the pack inside, jammed on your lap, for security — not on the roof.)

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Hired vehicle Caraz > Cholin

If you want to start in Cholin as we recommend, you need to organize transport there when you get to Caraz.

You approach taxi drivers & negotiate the cost for the trip. We paid about US$20 for 5 hikers. Ask Pony’s Expeditions to organize this for you if you feel uncomfortable doing it yourself.

Drivers will all tell you they know the route — the road is reasonable — even if they don’t. Our driver shouted for directions to everyone we met.

The odd colectivo goes to the tiny village of Cholin too, but a hired vehicle is far more convenient.

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Colectivo Caraz <> Cashapampa

Starting in Cashapampa is easier to arrange. than to Cholin. And is cheaper.

Colectivos between Caraz & Cashapampa (US$2) leave when full. That trip takes about 2 hours.

Cashapampa is the main trailhead for the popular Santa Cruz trek too so this section has plenty of gringo traffic.

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Transport Pomabamba <> Huaraz

At the end of our recommended route, several buses a day will comfortably return you to Yungay en route to Huaraz, 7 hours, US$7.

Take a day bus because this is one of the great alpine roads of the world. We met people who liked the road journey better than the hike!

Chances are you will stay overnight in Pomabamba. Buy your ticket when you first get there to depart next morning.

Our guidebook said that colectivos also ran to Yungay, but that was not the case when we were there.

We wish we had taken the bus, but instead hired a van to drive us back to Yungay. The price seemed high — US$90 — but we wanted the option to stop for photos when and wherever.

The photo stops were fabulous, but we had many problems.

At one point our driver announced he would no longer take us to Yungay, instead we would ride with another vehicle. Our price was reduced to US$60 for the whole trip. Odd.

Take the bus is our advice.

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Hitchhiking

Not recommended in Peru. Bus & colectivo are inexpensive & convenient. Few Peruvians drive personal vehicles. Why risk banditry if you do not need to?

mountain transport in Peru