70km (43+ miles), 5 days, 4 nights, is still short enough for us to carry our own packs. But we were in the minority — almost everyone hires pack horses.
If you do hire horses, let your arriero choose the campsites based on grazing & water for the horses. He will likely speak Quechua & know the good spots to get early morning sun.
Without carrying a pack, 4 nights, 5 days is an easy itinerary. If you are short of time, ask if it is possible to do it in 3 nights, 4 days.
Carrying your own pack, we recommend this very flexible itinerary:
Plan on a minimum of 4 nights in the tent if you are acclimatized already to altitude. (You might be OK if you spend time in Cuzco (3326m) in advance of the hike.)
Understand that Ausangate is very remote. If you are stricken with altitude sickness between passes, you must return on your own. Do not count on finding a horse en route — we saw very few once we crossed the first pass.
You can hike the Circuit in either direction, but the usual direction is better; starting towards Japata, finishing via Calachaca (counterclockwise).
... morning bus Cuzco 3326m to Tinqui (5-8 hours)
night 0 = Tinqui 3800m
... relax, acclimatize to the higher altitude
... last minute purchase of basics
night 1= across Arapa Pass (4757m)
... anywhere you like after crossing the pass. Near small tarns shortly after the pass is where we camped.
... this is the longest day, almost 1000m climb!
... if it looks too difficult, camp close to the Japata hotsprings before the pass & add an extra night
night 2 = across Arapacheta Pass (4850m)
... anywhere you like after crossing the pass
... continue as far as you can towards Palomani to shorten the climb next day
... this is a relatively short day.
night 3= across Palomani Pass (5165m)
... anywhere you like after crossing the pass
... the highest pass was not as difficult as we expected... again, continue as far as you can towards Campa
night 4 = across Campa Pass (5068m)
... anywhere you like after crossing the pass. There are some lovely lakes to choose from.
... we bee-lined for the hot springs near Calachaca & stayed in a simple hostel there
... start walking at dawn (from the hotsprings it is 3 hours to Tinqui)
... hike out in time to catch the bus (departed Tinqui about 9:30AM in May 2005)
night 5 = Tinqui or Cuzco
Summary:
- cross one pass a day for 4 days
- there is often no main trail, you need invent your own
- consider hiring a horse for the first day only (we did) to get you up to altitude
- stay as high as you can on the Circuit; descend only if you want to camp lower
- camp wherever you like, but choose spots which will get early morning sun from the East
- ask permission if you camp near herders
Our route is quite different to that of Lonely Planet Trekking in the Central Andes. Check & carry that guidebook, as well.
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If you are frustrated with over-regulated hikes like the Inca Trail, Ausangate offers you the ultimate in freedom to do what you like. Enjoy!
Mountaineers might consider adding a peak of two; most popular (we hear) are Huayruro Punco 5550m and Campa 5500m.
