night 0 = Cuzco
... catch a morning bus towards Abancay on the main highway
...ask to get out at the turn-off to Cachora (about 4 hours from Cusco)
... walk down to the village (90 minutes) — (you may be offered a ride in one of the few passing vehicles)
... organize a guide and/or arriero & pack animals in Cachora, if you wish
... stay in one of several inexpensive basic hostels overnight
night 1= Cachora village (2850m)
... get an early start
... long descent to the Apurímac river (take it easy)
... cross the excellent bridge
... ascend to Santa Rosa campsite (water, small shop)
night 2 = Santa Rosa
... get an early start
... ascend as quickly as you can to Marampata (2850m)
... set up your tent in one of the many lovely campspots
... ask permission first, of course, of the local people
... eat lunch, then head up to the ruins which are still an hour away
night 3= Marampata
... consider making a second visit to the ruins early the next morning
nights 4, 5, 6, 7 or more!
... continue past the ruins to the river Victoria (or Río Blanco on some maps)
... ascend (again) 2000m to the Victoria pass (4130m)
... continue to San Juan Pass (4200m)
... village of Yanama where you can buy basic supplies
... 3 hours to Apacheta pass (4650m)
... next, a walk to the village of Plateriyayoc.
... continue to the roadhead at La Playa. From there you can jump in a truck to Santa Teresa. Connect from there to Aguas Calientes. This is the route included in the SAE booklet.
... better, however, is to climb from La Playa to the lovely, remote campsite called Llactapata (in the Lonely Planet trekking guide). It has fabulous distant views of Machu Picchu.
... next day descend to the river & catch the afternoon train from the hydroelectric station. Or hike 9km instead along the tracks into Aguas Calientes.
... spend your final full day exploring Machu Picchu, comparing it with Choquequirao. Be sure to be waiting at the gates when it opens at 6AM. This means hiking up the mountain in the dark.
... the only way out is by train via Ollantaytambo which also is home to fantastic Inca ruins. Leave the train at Ollantaytambo, explore those ruins, then take a bus (2hrs) back to Cuzco.
