Details

Bus

The reliability of bus travel in the Peruvian Andes has improved greatly over the years. But there is no place you are more likely to be robbed than at a bus depot, so be careful.

Secure your personal items on the bus, especially if you plan to sleep.

You may be videotaped after boarding as an extra security measure. (In the past, thieves boarded as passengers. No more, now that they are on camera.)

Still, most long-term travellers in Peru get around by bus.

• Lima < > Arequipa bus

This is a popular, easy route in Peru but one which takes about 16 hours, normally overnight. Fares in 2005 ranged from US$12-$35 depending on class.

It is probably worth getting a good bus for this route, so you can get some sleep.

The most popular companies include Ormeno, Cruz del Sur, Flores & Civa.

Buying your ticket & finding the right bus station in Lima can be a hassle. (We learned this the hard way.)

Another time we phoned a bus company to book seats for a 7:30 PM departure. The computer held those seats for us until 3:00 PM, then deleted our reservation (since we did not get there until 5:00 PM). Buy tickets a day in advance was our lesson learned.

South American Explorers in Lima now books bus tickets for members with Cruz Del Sur, one of the best bus lines. Tickets are delivered to the SAE office in Miraflores, Lima. SAE will also inform you of the best way to get to the correct bus station, usually by legal cab.

Bussing Arequipa to Lima, logistics are much easier though you still should take a cab to your bus terminal the day before departure to pay for advanced, reserve tickets.

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• Lima <> Cuzco bus

The story of the bus to Cuzco is the same as to Arequipa (see above).

The main difference is that the trip is longer, 22-26 hours! (The flight is one hour & may only cost about double the luxury Cruz del Sur bus fare.)

The ride to Cuzco is rougher than to Arequipa.

Bus discounts may be available if you have a student card. Low season fares can be very low.

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• Cuzco <> Arequipa bus

The distance as the condor flies is not far, but this is still a 12-16 hour journey. Fares in 2005 ran US$15-20 depending on bus & exact route.

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Other easily arranged bus journeys for hikers include:

Arequipa <> Cuzco <> La Paz, Bolivia
Cuzco <> Puno (Lake Titicaca)

Avoid the expensive Cuzco <> Puno bus tour with the First Class company, visiting ruins & sites en route. We were very disappointed.

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• Arequipa <> Cabanaconde bus

We recommended you take the local bus to Cabanaconde. No need to hire more expensive private transportation.

In 2005 we took the recommended Transportes Reyna bus line at 6:30 AM from Terminal Terrestre (main bus station in Arequipa). Cost was about US$5 (15 Soles) one way plus 1 Sole departure tax.

Schedules seem to change frequently. The only way we could confirm depature time was to go the night before & buy seat assigned tickets.

Other companies compete on the same route with several buses daily. Their vehicles looked just as good, actually.

Check one thing — is the bus DIRECT? (We got one which stopped in Chivay for 90 minutes on the return.)

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Andagua <> Arequipa bus

You only need take this awful bus if you finish the 5-day trek. It is miserable, an all-nighter departing Andagua at 4 and 5 PM.

You bump along in the dark for 9 - 10 hours.

The first couple of hours before darkness falls reveals an interesting volcanic national reserve.

The return route does not go via Cabanaconde. Rather it is on the Orcapampa <> Arequipa route.

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Hitchhiking

Not recommended in Peru. Bus & plane are inexpensive & convenient. Few Peruvians drive personal vehicles. Why risk banditry if you do not need to?

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