2-day hike (difficult):
There are 2 main destinations out of Cabanaconde
- The Oasis
- Lahuar (hot springs!)
We have not yet hiked to the newer Lahuar site, but it sounds great.
Don’t let the travel agencies in Arequipa mislead you.
The 2-day hike into the Colca Canyon is difficult.
Almost every guided hiking tour goes the same route:
Cabanaconde to the nearby Mirador del Tapay, then 6 hours to the Oasis (Sangalle) via a steep descent to the Rio Colca, up the other side through 3 villages: San Juan de Chuccha, Cosnirhua & Malata. Lunch is taken in one of these 3 quaint towns.
The Oasis, as seen from the rim near Cabanaconde
This is a challenging 6 hours, even when carrying only water & a day pack.
The biggest test is altitude. Cabanaconde is at 3287m, much higher than Arequipa 2230m, so almost everyone is feeling the effects of altitude.
The trail down is steep. You need excellent footwear or expect damage to your toes.
The bridge into the Oasis is at 2160m! That is a long way down from Arequipa.
Dozens of agencies in Arequipa book this Colca Canyon Trek for you, the 2-days guided, all-inclusive for around US$30-100. Most tourists are happy with the trip.
Guided hikers stay 1 night in the Oasis in simple huts, then slog back up (next morning) the canyon wall on a different trail back to Cabanaconde, a nice circuit.
Oasis hut
But independent hikers can do exactly the same trip cheaper with more flexibility as to where you walk, eat & stay. You could tent at the Oasis, for example.
Our advice to independents is that you take the local bus to Cabandaconde & hike into the canyon from there. Public buses from Arequipa are convenient <details>.
If you have time, stay a night or two in Cabanaconde to acclimatize to altitude. It is an inexpensive, relaxing town with a couple of good restaurants & high speed internet.
You will miss the best single viewpoint, Cruz del Condors, unless you make time to do that short trip from Cabanaconde. Take public transport to Cruz del Condors to arrive before 7:30 AM (the tour groups arrive about 8:30 AM) & walk back to Cabanaconde before it gets too hot. Hike the aquaduct rather than the road for better views.
Independently hike the same route as the guided tours. You can follow them if you want to be sure not to get lost. There are very few main trails so it is difficult to get lost. On the other hand, this author did get lost (trying a shortcut based on the advice of a local) and ended up staying in the little-visited village of Tapay. <trip report>
The main problem with hiking Colca Canyon is the lack of up-to-date hiking maps. The best maps you can get are hand drawn by tour agencies. They are sketchy at best.
Lonely Planet Trekking the Central Andes does not cover the 2-day hike.
