Milford Track - Rick McCharles February 2003

For me the unreported yet pre-eminent highlight of New Zealand are the many varied and fantastic waterfalls.

Pride of place goes to Sutherland Falls, the highest and most hyped waterfall in New Zealand. The water pounds down with unbelievable force. I tried to walk behind the watery curtain but was driven back by the wind generated by the Falls.

Sutherland Falls

Sutherland was a Scot, the first white man to settle permanently in remote, wet Milford Sound. Alone but for his dog Groatie; he was known as The Hermit of Milford. He discovered and named the falls asserting they were the world's highest — 5000 feet. Tourists began to flock to Milford the following year though the falls were eventually measured to be only 1904 feet over 3 leaps.

Scots like Sutherland were bred to migrate to the cold, wet, dark extremes of the world. They had the wrathful Hellfire of a vengeful Presbyterian God to keep them warm.

The south of the south island in New Zealand is Scottish. Reminders of Scottish heritage are everywhere though the only whiskey distiller recently went bust.

The largest southern city is Dunedin, Celtic for Edinburgh. A statue of Robbie Burns welcomes sons of Scotland to the town centre.

I, gone south to hike the southern alps, lucked into a last-minute spot on the coveted Milford Track — the finest walk in the world, as it is called. This sobriquet is much mocked by hikers, each listing better Tracks. (The West Coast Trail, for example.)

The controversy began in 1908 when a London Spectator editor changed the title of an article on the New Zealand track from the author's A Noteable Walk to The Finest Walk in the World. The appellation stuck.

Yet, as one hiker rationalized, Travelling New Zealand and missing the Milford Track would be like travelling to Paris and missing the Eiffel Tower.

Fact is the Milford is a fantastic hike unfairly diminished by detractors most of whom have not hiked it. It is particularly fantastic in good weather — I had perfect weather. Endless highs, man.

See for yourself. I have posted annotated photos of the Milford and this website.

The highlight of the trip for me was the stunning Mackinnon Pass. Vistas in every direction. I scrambled part way up a peak adjacent to the alpine saddle.

My friend RC contends I hike mainly so I can dangle my feet off cliff ledges. He’s right. I was told it would take me about 12 seconds to reach the hut 800m below this sign on Mackinnon Pass.

parrot perched on DANGER sign

Providing much entertainment for hikers is another outlandish bird, the Kea, the only alpine parrot. This one did a proficient job of unzipping my pack!

Huge blunder on the Milford. I forgot my long pants in the van. There are two spots called Sandfly Point in New Zealand — you pass both on the Milford Track! Fjordland and the West Coast are notorious for these sneaky, blood-sucking vampire bugs.

Most National Parks are places where you cannot step off the trail lest you bruise a lichen — but where fish can be hooked, suffocated, bludgeoned and devoured. Such are the inconsistencies in a world where Tequila is legal, Peyote not.

large fish in small bowl

large fish swimming in clear water
lunker Rainbow and Brown trout thrive in the incredibly clear Clinton

Milford is different. All mammals (except bats and hikers) are fair game. If you have a licence you can shoot anything you want — but at least 1 km. off the track please.

For many years I went slackjawed at photos of Milford Sound and dreamed of visiting. It is a classic Fijord with vertical walls. The famous photo is The Mitre, reputed to be the second highest mountain (after Hawaii) which rises directly from the sea.

Mitre Peak seen from kayak

I signed on for a kayak tour with Rosco’s, a great outfit with a bit of a scandalous reputation. The comic guides paddle and entertain every day of the year from the wettest settlement in New Zealand. (9m of rain in 1988)

I am not sure the guides are actually paid — as the main remuneration seemed to be picking-up tourist chicks. Good on em!

Milford Track, New Zealand

Milford Track, New Zealand