Why?
the most essential guidebook for Paine hikers
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Details, Transportation, Accommodation
Travel Guidebooks
The best general travel guidebooks to South America are Lonely Planet & Footprint (formerly the South American Handbook). LP has better maps. Footprint is updated more often. Both are very good.
But be sure you get the most recent editions.
Flying in Chile
Santiago is the main gateway city for Chile. But it is a long way from Santiago to Paine at the southern tip of the continent. Most travellers find Santiago dull, by the way.
If you fly to Chile, best to connect in Santiago, then fly directly to Punta Arenas.
LanChile is the main carrier in Chile though a number of smaller airlines offer better, friendlier service. The LanChile website, in particular, frustrates & often malfunctions.
The only reason we can think of to fly with LanChile is to get a LanChile Airpass — once offering 3 domestic flights in Chile over 21 days for US$300 or so, a great bargain for a hiker wanting to get to Patagonia. In recent years the cost has increased. Read the terms closely. You probably need to fly into Chile on LanChile to be eligible to get it. The pass is not good for Easter Island.
Compare fares. In 2004 most hikers could fly via Argentina for less.
Another reason to avoid Santiago is the often unexpected reciprocation fee levied against some nationalities when arriving on an international flight. For example:
- USA passport pays US$100
- Canadian passport pays US$55
This fee is required only once every 10 years.
Flying in Argentina
Buenes Aires is the tourist capital of Argentina — and a wonderful destination. There is no reciprocation fee required when flying there.
Foreign tourists who have a choice should fly into Argentina, then fly or bus to El Calafate, Argentina (close to Moreno Glacier and the Fitz Roy hike).
From El Calagate the bus ride to Puerto Natales, Chile is convenient.
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