Why?
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FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)
How many days are needed to hike the Circuit?
Our recommended Route is 9 days, 8 nights.
9 days is good. A day or two extra, better.
Many do it in less by doubling up some days. In the summer, this far south, you can hike in daylight until at least 9 pm at night!
If you do not have 9 days, we recommend you instead do the “W” — no rush to finish in 4 nights, 5 days.
We met two French hikers doing the entire circuit in 5 days, 4 nights. That is less than 30km / day, including sidetrips. Possible, but not nearly as much fun.
If you carry a tent, no booking is necessary for accommodation — bring enough food for 9 days & decide day-by-day how far you want to go.
Hike clockwise? Or the other direction?
Older guidebooks tend to recommend clockwise. Newer ones counterclockwise. Both directions are good.
We recommend counter clockwise for these reasons:
- saves most of the highlights of the Circuit to the end
- the spectacular panorama of Glacier Grey from the pass
- bump into fewer hikers as most travelling in the same direction
Downside? The scramble down from John Garner pass is more difficult & dangerous an a counter clockwise hike.
What guidebooks do you recommend?
Other recommended books on Paine?
The next best hiking guides we have seen:
Trekking and Climbing in the Andes: 26 Adventure Treks, 2002 — Paine, Fitz Roy & more. (Globetrotter Adventure Guide) by Pitkethly & Harper.
The Andes, A Trekking Guide, 2001, by John & Cathy Biggar. Colourful brief overview of the hikes in South America. Includes Paine, Fitz Roy & more. Great photos, Flora & Fauna section.
Chile & Argentina. Backpacking & Hiking, Bradt Guide, by Tim Burford, 1998. Be sure to get the most recent Bradt guide as they are frequently updated. Contains more background information than Lonely Planet but is not as well organized.
In Patagonia you can buy dozens of different inexpensive souvenir photo books. What to read in advance of your trip? These may inspire:
In Patagonia, by Bruce Chatwin. The most famous book on Patagonia does not mention Paine. Interesting, complex. Not an easy read.
Baja to Patagonia, by Larry Rice. A couple of chapters hiking & kayaking Paine.
Nowhere Is a Place: Travels in Patagonia, by Bruce Chatwin, Paul Theroux, Jeff Gnass
Enduring Patagonia, by Gregory Crouch, the best of this bunch. Unfortunately it focuses on the Fitz Roy region, not Paine. Crouch is a die hard mountaineer.
Patagonia: Wild Land At The End Of The Earth, by Tim Hauf, Conger, Jr. Beasley, Gregory Crouch. Over 130 photographs.
What are the best Paine Circuit websites?
There are surprisingly few useful websites. We’ve linked to them throughout & listed the best under Links.
What is the best map?
Every hiker gets a free map at the Park entrance.
Many also buy JLM Mapas Topographical map 1:100,000: Torres del Paine Trekking Map when they get to Patagonia
Details and a listing of on line maps on our Map page.
Place name confusion?
- Hosteria Las Torres or Campamento Torres?
- Refugio Grey or Hosteria Lago Grey?
These similar-sounding locations are easily confused. The two in bold are on our list of recommended campsites, the other two are not.
We found that many hikers (including us) were confused at times. Keep your map handy.
Do hikers ever get lost?
It must happen, but it is not a big problem.
Trail signs are poor, inconsistent, confusing & frustrating — but you still are unlikely to get lost for more than 5 minutes. In places different colours of flags & paint splats compete with one another to keep you on the correct path. Keep looking for distant trail markings.
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