Santa Cruz Trek hiking, Peru - Details for Organizing the Hike

Details for Organizing the Hike

Bus

Reliability of bus travel in the Peruvian Andes has improved greatly over the years. (Though being videotaped when boarding as a safety precaution against theft & kidnap is disconcerting.)

Secure your personal items on the bus, especially if you plan to sleep.

Still, most long-term travellers in Peru get around by bus. Discounts may be available if you have a student card.

On the one hand, it is disappointing not to be able to fly to Huaraz. On the other, it sets up a wonderful scenic bus loop:

1. Bus Lima > Huaraz in daylight for the amazing & varying vistas.

2. Bus or collectivo the valley (possibly several times) north to Caraz.

3. Finally, bus Caraz to Chimbote on the coast via the spectacular & heart-stopping Cañón del Pata (Duck Canyon) route. You won’t forget this wild ride. It was featured in a Pilot Guides Peru television show with the featured traveller on the roof of the bus ducking tunnels.

In 2005 the best bus to Chimbote was Yungay Express, departing Caraz at 8:30AM. (That bus departs full, so you should buy tickets in advance the night before. Might as well stay in Caraz.)

From Chimbote it is easy to connect to a night bus back to Lima. Or you could head to northern Peru.

You could reverse the direction of the loop (as we did, actually) but you might get stuck overnight in Chimbote (as we did) a town that stinks of fish. Yungay Express departs Chimbote also at 8:30AM.

Lima <> Huaraz bus

A number of companies offer service from Lima, 7-8 hours, costing US$7-14 depending on class. It could be 50% higher around major festivals.

You have a choice of day or night bus. The trip is very scenic — take a day bus at least one direction. You generally want to book & pay for your ticket at least 1 day in advance.

This bus travels from sea level over the 4080m Conococha Pass before alighting in Huaraz at 3090m. Expect some symptoms of altitude sickness. The night bus can be cold.

Departing Huaraz is easy though there is no central terminal.

But finding the correct bus terminal in congested Lima can be a problem as the major companies have 2 or more terminals. Again it is best to book your ticket one day in advance even if this means taking a cab to a ticketing office.

South American Explorers in Lima now books bus tickets for members only with Cruz Del Sur, one of the best bus lines. Tickets are delivered to the SAE office in Miraflores, Lima. SAE will also inform you of the best way to get to the correct bus station, usually by legal cab. Nice service SAE!

Huaraz <> Caraz

Transport to Caraz is easy to organize.

Ask at your accommodation in Huaraz for specifics.

There are a few buses every day. But most hikers simply hop in the next available combi, a battered van running back & forth along highway 3 from Huaraz to Caraz.

The fixed price bus is safer & your gear can be locked up.

The combis are more convenient, more interesting & more dangerous! The real Peru. They are crammed with locals, produce & everything else. You must negotiate the fare.

You should pay about double the local price for yourself & your pack. (Keep luggage inside, jammed on your lap, for security — not on the roof.)

Caraz <> Cashapampa trailhead

Transport to Cashapampa, the usual starting trailhead, is easy to arrange.

Collective taxis & private cars between Caraz & Cashapampa (US$2, 5-6 soles in 2005) leave when full, tripping about 2 hours.

You might even hop in the back of a truck (camione) for about US$1.50

Plenty of hikers are travelling to Cashapampa during the high season. You might chip in on a hired vehicle.

If you arrive in Cashapampa late in the day, a camping spot is close to the trailhead. And simple hostels are available.

Vaqueria <> Yungay <> Huaraz

At the end of our recommended route, you will find yourself at shops & a bus stop on the highway. This is Vaqueria 3700m.

Several buses a day will comfortably return you to Yungay & on to Huaraz, 4-5 hours, US$5 / person.

But most hikers simply flag down the next colectivo, truck or any-other-kind-of vehicle which happens past. You need negotiate the fare, about US$3 (10 soles in 2005) from Vaqueria to Yungay. From there all sorts of transportation including buses will return you to Huaraz, or take you the other direction to Caraz for a couple of soles.

By the way, this is one of the great alpine roads of the world. We met people who liked the road journey back better than the hike! It is unbelievable that a road was built on a shoulder of Huascaran, the highest mountain in Peru.

Even if you do not hike, book time for the Llanganuco valley road from Yungay to Vaqueria.

You may want to pay extra for photo stops.

Caraz <> Chimbote

Another of the great alpine roads of the world, we liked this one even better than Llanguanuco.

There are two roads to Chimbote on the coast. You want the Cañón del Pata route. This canyon is narrow & extreme with multiple blasted tunnels.

Depart Caraz at 8:30AM on Yungay Express. Sit on the right side of the bus on the window to look over the cliff. As always, book your ticket the day before departure.

The road is partly paved & is not all that bumpy. There is a big push in Caraz to improve that scenic road as many more tourists would find their way to Caraz when it is finished.

The trip costs US$8 or less, about 7 hours assuming all goes well. Good luck.