Routes — Day 1 South Crater to Ketitahi Hut

After the strain of the Devil's Staircase, the stroll across flat South Crater is relaxing.

Ngauruhoe looms on the right, Tongariro on the left.

On the other side of the flats is an easier climb up a ridge separating South & Central craters. The path is much trod, the climb marked with poles.

Many stop to rest at the signposted junction to the Tongariro summit. This is a much easier, quicker climb than Ngauruhoe. We recommend it though Tongariro is not nearly as fascinating as the bigger volcano.

Many hikers skip the scramble to Tongariro because they think they do not have enough time. It is 2 hours maximum. If you plan on it, there is plenty of time — even for day hikers.

Next highlight is fascinating Red Crater off to your right. The colours are amazing. (The geology suggestive!)

You climb the rim of Red Crater to the highest point on the Circuit, 1886m. This spot is very exposed, miserable in bad weather.

Everyone looks forward to their first view of the Emerald Lakes. The outrageous colour is caused by minerals leaking into the water from steaming volcanic vents in Red Crater. There are some marvelous photos opportunities contrasting the perfection of the lake with the blasted rock.

Wardens told us it is safe to swim.

The descent to the lakes is steep & slippery. Some take the opportunity to scree down.

At the lakes is a junction. Circuit hikers normally choose:

1. to continue to Ketetahi Hut (2 hours), or
2. to descend to Oturere Hut (2 hours)

Both are good. We recommend Ketetahi Hut.

Ketetahi has spectacular views of Rotoaira Lake and a unique setting in tussock. En route to Ketetahi is elegent Blue Lake, another water filled volcanic vent — sacred to the Maori. It would be a shame to miss these highlights by choosing Oturere Hut.

Rotoaira Lake in the distance

Ketitahi Hut is standard but offers superb, unique tent sites hidden in tussock grass. (If you tent, be careful you do not get lost in the dark. It can be difficult to find your site even with a flash light.)

On a busy day all the tent sites may be taken, however.

It is a joy to sit out on the Ketitahi Hut deck, watching the fading light. It is amusing too to watch the day hikers rushing down the mountain fearful of being late for the bus.

Study the fantastic zooming flies.